Aletschhorn

The Aletschhorn (4,192 m (13,753 ft)) is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland, it lies within the Jungfrau-Aletsch region, which has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The mountain share its name with the Aletsch Glacier lying at its foot.

Geography

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After the Finsteraarhorn it is the second highest peak in the Bernese Alps. On its northern flank lies the Aletschfirn, which is part of the Aletsch Glacier. On the south west lies the Oberaletsch Glacier and, on the south, lies the Mittelaletsch Glacier. Both are in the catchment area of the Massa river, which originates in the Aletsch Glacier and ends up in the Rhone river. Its remote location in the middle of glaciers make the Aletschhorn, despite its height, less known than the summits of Jungfrau and Eiger which lie about 10 km on the north.

Climbing history

]] The Aletschhorn was climbed almost 50 years after the Jungfrau. In fact when the summit of the Jungfrau was conquered, the climbers used base camps on the Aletschfirn, at the foot of the Aletschhorn.

The mountain was climbed first in 1859 by Francis Fox Tuckett, J. J. Bennen, V. Tairraz and P. Bohren. On 18 June, they started the ascent from the Mittelaletsch Glacier (on the south side). Like many other climbers, Tuckett took with him a barometer and made scientific observations. He noted the icy temperature and the very strong wind, blowing the snow and threating to knock over the climbers.

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After they reached the summit, Tuckett separated from Bennen and descended on the north face with Bohren and Tairraz. He wanted to reach directly the valley of Lötschental, but soon after they began the descent, an avalanche started right under the feet of the climbers. They cautiously went back and descended on the Mittelaletsch.

Climbing Routes

Northeast Ridge

  • Difficulty: WS+
  • Starting point: Mittelaletschbiwak (3,013 m)
  • Valley place: Fiesch (1,049 m)

Southwest Ridge

  • Difficulty: ZS, II
  • Starting point: Oberaletschhütte (2,640 m)
  • Valley place: Blatten bei Naters (1,322 m)

References

  • This article is based on a translation of the from the German Wikipedia, accessed on various occasions during April 2005.


External links

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